Frank Bruni, restaurant destroyer for the New York Times, weighs in on a topic that’s been burning up the Daily Slope message board: is new(ish) Seventh Ave restaurant Sette worth your while?
Overall, Bruni seems to have a gentler hand than our Daily Slope posters.
Compare Bruni:
An appetizer of roasted asparagus was distinguished by the Parmesan fondue on which the spears rested. It was satisfyingly rich without being heavy, and scattered here and there were crisp bits of pancetta, needed and appreciated less for their salt than for their crunch. The contrasting texture lifted the dish a notch.
With an anonymous and savage Daily Slope poster:
I had an asparagus appetizer that came with a tepid, watery cheese slurry. It congealed somewhat into a more edible consistency, but it was pretty icky.
Read Bruni’s review at the New York Times
Read “Sette on 7th – Ick” in the Park Slope Message Boards
Image credit: Michelle V. Agins/The New York Times
I think Bruni was fair and balanced in his appraisal. This is clearly a one-star restaurant. Not on par with Stone Park (two stars), but entirely passable for a dinner of woodburning oven pizza, salad, pasta and a nice $20 bottle of regional Italian wine. My family of four has had the above-referenced meal twice there, spending about $85, including tip and walking away well-nourished, satisfied, but not excited.
I actually find the quality of food and service somewhat superior at La Villa (on Fifth Ave.) for about the same price.